Hiking Acatenango and Fuego volcano was one of the most rewarding things I’ve ever done! Welcome to the land of fire and ice, where towering volcanoes loom above lush jungles and colonial towns, and where the earth’s primal forces shape the landscape and culture. If you’re up for a challenging yet rewarding trek, look no further than Acatenango and Fuego, two of Guatemala’s most famous and active volcanoes. In this blog post, I’ll share my experience hiking these giants and give you some tips on how to make the most of your journey.
First things first, Acatenango and Fuego are not for the faint of heart. At over 3,900 meters (12,795 feet) and 3,763 meters (12,346 feet) respectively, they require a decent level of fitness, acclimatization, and preparation. You’ll also need a guide and some basic gear, such as warm clothing, sturdy shoes, a headlamp, a backpack, and plenty of water and snacks. But fear not, the effort is well worth it.
My journey started in Antigua, a charming town in Guatemala, known for its colorful buildings, cobblestone streets, and lively markets. We booked a two-day hike with a local company, which included transportation, food, and camping gear. Our group of 30 plus hikers, led by knowledgeable guides, set off early in the morning towards the base of Acatenango. The trail started gently enough, winding through cornfields and coffee plantations, but soon turned steep and rocky, testing our legs and lungs. We paused frequently to catch our breath and admire the stunning views of Antigua and its surroundings.
As we climbed higher, the vegetation changed from tropical to temperate, and the air grew colder and thinner. We entered a cloud forest, where mosses, ferns, and orchids covered the trees and rocks, and the mist enveloped us like a mystical veil. We also encountered some wildlife, such as colorful birds, butterflies, and squirrels, as well as some signs of human activity, like makeshift shelters and trash left by careless hikers.
After approximately 5 hours of hiking, we reached our first campsite. 3,000 meters (9,800 feet) above sea level. We set up our tents, had a hearty meal of beans, rice, and tortillas, and rested for a while, enjoying the warmth of the campfire and the company of our fellow hikers. As night fell, we braved the hail and rain and hiked up to a nearby viewpoint, where we could see the glowing crater of Fuego in the distance. The sight was both mesmerizing and intimidating, as Fuego is one of the most active and dangerous volcanoes in Central America, erupting almost daily and spewing ash, lava, and gas.
The result of this additional 4 hour round trip hike to Fuego was the brutality of the hail storm. It left us soaking wet, heavy, freezing and making our way back to basecamp in the dark. Tears were shed and screams echoed under the forests night sky. 6 weeks later, portions of my big toe are still numb. My biggest tip here would be to skip the hike up to fuego IF it begins to rain and hail. Unless you are prepared with fully waterproof clothing, including shoes, don’t do it. What we did was dangerous and not recommended. We trusted the guides but we were nowhere close to their pain tolerance.
Upon arrival back to basecamp we attempted to dry our soaking clothes and shoes by the fire. We were hoping for a comfortable sunrise hike in the morning with warm clothes. We weren’t so lucky and some of our items, shoes and soles in particular were victimized by the blaze.
The next morning, the camp set off at 4:30am and continued their ascent towards Acatenango’s summit. Those that chose to skip the hike to Fuego to rest instead, had extra dry clothes or turned back around the moment it began to rain the night before were the ones that attempted the sunrise hike. Even then the group thinned out with people experiencing altitude sickness, making them feel nauseous, light headed and breathless. Only a fraction actually made it up to the summit.
When they returned, we had our final meal before it was time to descend the mountain. We took a slightly different route on the way down than we had during our initial ascent. There were no horses to rent back down so be prepared if you rode a horse on the way up.
Over course of two days there will be three hikes to attempt.
If you’d like a detailed Guatemala travel itinerary to help plan your own trip, check out this blog post!
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